Old vines grown on a warm, exposed slope (important in Chablis) give this wine its richness and textured concentration. Ripe apple and tangy lime flavors complement a tight edge that will soften as the wine matures. Drink from 2023. ROGER VOSS

Domaine Laroche traces its beginnings back to AD867. This high-quality example of Premier Cru Chablis Vieilles Vignes shows purity of fruit, density of flavour and some subtle, judicious, oak maturation adding some extra layers of complexity. With a mineral aftertaste, this also has intriguing hints of honey and lemon curd on the nose and palate.

(90-93 points) 90% Roncières and 10% Chatains, all old vines. Mid yellow, very delicious nose, kept its sterner side, yet still with, some yellow fruit, balanced by white pepper. Chiselled on the palate with the clean cut style of Vaillons allied to that little touch of extra 2019 flesh.

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes unwinds in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, pastry cream, fresh bread and light reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and saline, it's bright and chiseled, with a classically Chablisien tang.- Wk

The 2019 Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has a lovely, charming bouquet with orange pith, tinned peach and light apricot scents that probably make it sound more tropical than it actually is. The palate is well-balanced with a waxy-textured opening. Certainly, this represents one of the more concentrated wines of the flight, grippy and pithy, maybe just missing a little tension and race toward the finish? Otherwise, this should age well in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. -- Neal Martin

Intense yet undeveloped, this wine has the peppery buzz of fresh-pressed olive oil. The fruit of 60-year-old vines on a southeast-facing slope, this ripened to peach and roasted-lemon flavors in 2019. Oak aging (in foudres and barrels) drives the spice in a powerful Chablis that needs cellar time to mellow.