Opulent in yellow plum, apple and lemon flavors yet sharply focused, this richly textured Chablis balances ripeness with a steely, racy edge of acidity. Matured entirely in stainless steel, the fruit-focused, penetrating wine should improve through 2035 and hold a bit longer still. It's a fantastic value for premier cru Chablis of this quality. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA

Louis Moreau’s domaine includes 22 acres at this southeast-facing cru, where the oldest parcels date to 1976. Like all of his wines, this ferments with ambient yeasts and sees no oak, gaining all of its fatness and textural satin from the grape skins and yeasts in the fine lees. The wine’s pale limestone abrasion smooths as the depth of flavor extends—like a fleshy Champagne, or, as Whitney Asher (Brava, Lenox, Mass.), described it, “a lobster shell scent—it makes me want to eat lobster rolls in the sunshine,” as we were tasting it on a rainy July day.