The nose presents a strong and compelling argument: firm white peach, pretty lemon blossom, a whiff of charred oak and a puff of graphite lurking beneath struck flint. Strikingly reminiscent of Penfolds' Bin Reserve Bin A, it helps define a new high-watermark for Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. With a slender, nimble palate that is deceptively long, its clean persistent flavours and subtle complexity leaves you contemplative long after the glass is empty. Released at AU$49. (Drink between 2020-2028)

This is a very concentrated, complex and refined chardonnay that locks in on very intense white peaches, lemons and grapefruit, framed in a wealth of fresh, spicy, young French oak, as well as flinty elements. The palate has mouthwateringly fresh acidity, powering fresh lemon and peach flavors into a long, tautly wound finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The clear expression of on-point ripe peach and nectarine fruits is this wine's calling card. A delicate little wrap of oak adds the spice of ginger-nut biscuit with the swell of an appealing creaminess; subtle acidity holds it in balance all the way. Fruit, oak, spice and tang - the whole varietal experience. Special. Closure: Screwcap. 13.5% alcohol.

Limpid straw color. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral-accented pear, orange zest and jasmine, along with a suggestion of toasty lees. Offers energetic, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors that stain the palate while showing a surprisingly light touch. A sexy floral nuance builds steadily as the wine opens up, as do hints of saffron and buttered toast that carry through the long, mineral-driven and sharply focused finish. -- Josh Raynolds