Young, but not a hair out of place, despite the knife-edge tension. This is a remarkably taut, focused, yet nuanced Chardonnay, with lifted lime zest, twangy lemongrass, sencha tea, struck match and powder puff phenolics. A ripe, lemony backbone of acidity, ever so gently spun with savoury lees (a suggestion of mushroom), seamlessly absorbs the lightly toasted hazelnut oak (61% new). Delicate and intense; exceptionally refined.

Everyone has their favourites. The Heytesbury chardonnay style is typically the wine that my heart reaches for. I love it. The 2019 iteration is minerally; laden with graphite and crushed rocks, brine, white currant, white peach and curry leaf. Heavily worked and wild, with an attractive rawness to it. Where 2018 was about fruit power, 2019 is about complex winemaking input. This still has my heart, but for different reasons to its predecessor. Special. Closure: Screw cap. 13% alcohol.

Complex, smoky nose of hawthorn, grilled pineapple, dried lemon, ash, flint and cedar. Full-bodied, but refined, with tight, elegant layers. Phenolic. Excellent backbone of acidity to balance the concentrated fruit and spice. Vivid and long. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

One of the most renowned Chardonnays in Australia, the latest release is a knockout. A cool vintage allowed for gorgeous natural acidity and bright fruit to shine. Being the most cellarworthy of the Vasse Chards, Heytesbury is always structured and more oak driven when young. It opens with heady aromas of toasted nuts, flint, seashell, vanilla pod and a seaweed-like umami note amid melon and lemon curd. The palate is fabulously fresh with textural complexity, and lingering nut, saline and citrus notes on the lengthy finish. Drink now–2030 and likely much longer. —CHRISTINA PICKARD

Shimmering straw. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes fresh, mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruits, saffron, chamomile and fennel, and vanilla and sweet butter notes build with aeration. Shows superb clarity and mineral cut on the palate, offering concentrated pear nectar, Meyer lemon, hazelnut, honeysuckle and candied ginger flavors and a touch of smoky lees. Emphatically echoes the mineral and floral notes on the impressively long finish, which shows noteworthy precision and spicy cut. -- Josh Raynolds

This is Gingin-clone chardonnay from the estate’s most distinctive parcels in what turned out to be a long, cool season in Margaret River. It fermented on its own yeasts and all the barrels completed malolactic conversion; that, combined with the impact of 61 percent new oak barrels, lends the wine an initial scent of caramel and butterscotch. Then notes of green pear and lime zest come up, deepening to white peach, lasting light, long and fragrant. Finely integrated, round and cool, this is a wine to cellar, or to decant for veal saltimbocca.