Lots of depth here, with ripe blackberries and some nicely baked black cherries, roasted herbs, incense, dark spices, mussels and a balsamic tinge. An admirably fine dollop of tannins on the palate, which are immaculate and juicy, as they thoroughly dunk into the black fruit, melting into a persistent finish that lasts for over a minute. Very impressive. Drink or hold.

The heady and ripe 2020 PS follows the house style and the profile of the regular Aalto from the same vintage, with slightly higher ripeness, more creaminess and toastier oak. It's predictable and very good at it, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins and some chalkiness in the pungent, intense and oaky finish. It has 15% alcohol and mellow acidity. For fans of oaky and ripe Tempranillo. 35,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2022 after 21 months in new French oak barrels. - Luis Gutierrez