From a selection of parcels in Sécher, Chatains, Roncières and Mélinots. Harvested separately and fermented before blending. Bright, very zippy, lemon acidity, crisp, floral, and with nice weight. 50% oak but very subtle, with winemaker Olivier Bailly using 600-litre casks of at least five years’ age for the maturation of Sécher.

(90-92 points) Here too there is just enough wood present to bear mentioning on the more floral and spicier aromas of citrus blossom and mineral reduction. The delicious and almost painfully intense flavors are beautifully well-detailed while possessing a lovely texture on the sneaky long, saline and refreshing finish.

The 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru comes from six parcels (2.95ha) that are picked and vinified separately. It has an expressive nose with chalk and wet limestone; the 25% oak ageing lends a touch more presence. The palate is well balanced with a decent bead of acidity, quite taut and focused, fine tension with a light bitter lemon and nettle note towards the finish. Fine. -- Neal Martin