(96-97 points) The white-golden colored 2020 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie shows CO2 pearls in the glass, and it indeed opens somewhat reductive, asking for a Burgundy glass. Yet even though the 2020 Clos du Bourg asks for patience, it already indicates a terribly concentrated bouquet of lemon chutney and humid chalk. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and juicy, very elegant and generous Chenin from this ancient six-hectare grand cru (one of the oldest in France, as the domaine assures). It is immediately attractive, stimulatingly piquant and nourishes hope for a great future. The potential is doubtlessly there, but 7-10 years of our patience is presumed. Tasted as a sample in May 2021. - SR

Succulent yet refined, the 2020 Clos du Bourg Première Trie Moelleux offers elegance and focus despite its sweetness. There's no sense of heaviness nor unctuosity (yet there's 93g/L residual sugar). Expect pineapple and smoky notes, florals and apple strudel, along with masses of concentration and impeccable balance. A real delight that has plenty of drinkability even in infancy but will evolve over the coming decades. Finished sample. -- Rebecca Gibb MW

This lush, refined wine boasts lots of complexity, with pineapple chutney, yellow fig paste, verbena and heather notes that are edged with crystalized ginger, mango, cardamom and mineral elements. Beautiful and enticing. Drink now through 2040. — G.S.

The very sensual nose of candied orange, floral honey and vanilla bean drags you into this luscious and beautifully balanced expression of the chenin blanc grape. Very impressive concentration and precision, the intense mineral acidity effortlessly balancing the ample unfermented grape sweetness. Very long, honeyed yet bright finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

96+ The 2020 Clos du Bourg Première Trie seems to have the most botrytis of these three bottlings, which gives it a slightly deeper-pitched nose of apple, peach, candied quince, a hint of raspberry, a stunning base of soil, bee pollen, incipient notes of barley sugar, a touch of lanolin, citrus peel and a topnote of honeycomb. On the palate the wine is deep, young and full-bodied, with a bottomless core, snappy acids, laser-like focus, lovely mineral drive and bounce, great balance and a long, youthfully complex and gorgeous finish. This is richer than either the Le Haut Lieu or Le Mont Première Trie bottlings, so it will also want some time in the cellar to let those layers of complexity rise up through the stunning puppy fat fruit and start to define the wine. In due course, this will be pure magic!