This fine, aromatic wine is one of the top cuvées from this producer. Its fruit is soft, full-bodied and densely powerful. The structure is shot with minerality and citrus and kiwi fruits. It is well-balanced, intense and will be ready from 2023. Organic. ROGER VOSS

From an extremely steep, south-facing plot on Kimmeridgian soils in Chavignol and vinified in stainless steel for five months, the 2020 Sancerre La Comtesse offers a pure fresh and intense as well as complex bouquet of bright fruits, lemon juice and oysters. Round and lush on the palate, this is a powerful, rich but fine and elegant Sancerre with a serious, persistent structure, fine tannins and rich extract. The finish is fresh and saline and reveals stimulating and refreshing phenolic grip. 14% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in May 2022.- SR