The 2023 Mommessin La Forge de Tart Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru is a Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits, positioned as the “second wine from the Clos de Tart,” according to Decanter. At 13.5% alcohol, it sits firmly in the serious, cellar-worthy end of red Burgundy, and it has arrived on the market with unusually strong early critical attention.

Decanter (94 points) describes “a lovely concentration of mulberry and plum aromas touched with hints of smoke and spice,” and notes a wine that is “plump and firm, with a pleasantly lingering finish.” The same review offers unusually concrete production detail: the blend “uses younger vines and the clonal selections of the vineyard,” with “25% of the grapes… fermented as whole clusters” and élevage “in cask (40% new).” Decanter also frames La Forge as a kind of workshop for the estate team, writing that Noli is using it to implement changes, “reducing new oak while extending the length of maturation.”

The standout review is from James Suckling, who rates it 98 points (listed as 97–98) and calls out “complex aromas and flavors of red fruits, bark, chocolate, flint and smoke,” backed by a “dense yet silky center-palate” and a “seemingly endless finish.” That is an excellent score at this level, and it signals a wine that marries intensity with finesse rather than leaning purely on power.

Jasper Morris (94) emphasizes its style and structure: “a heady warmth of largely strawberry fruit,” plus “a tarry aspect with quite dry tannins,” adding that it’s “all made with a gentle hand and impressive length.” Burghound (92) similarly points to whole-cluster influence—“notably quite floral”—and a palate that is “succulent, round and velvet-textured,” finishing “lightly stony and attractively persistent.” Burghound’s only reservation is “noticeable warmth,” but concludes it is “sufficiently structured to reward a decade plus of keeping.”