Vibrant and saline with a medium body, tangy acidity and a textured, almost oily palate. Serious and structured Blanc de Noirs with notes of grapefruit, salted almonds, apricot skin and stones. Tight bubbles. Gourmand. 40% perpetual reserve. Drink or hold.

A rich version set in a firm, finely honed frame, with exotic spice, lime blossom and orange liqueur notes forming an aromatic thread, which winds through raspberry tart, grilled nut, graphite and crystallized honey flavors. Silky in texture, with a long, mouthwatering finish.

This blanc de noirs, all vinified in small oak barrels, has a 2015 base, the warmest harvest ever from bud break to picking and one of the driest on record. This partly accounts for the very rich, golden colour, accentuated by 12 months in oak, plus an additional six months on fine lees before bottling. Super ripe, with a richly toasty, smoky nose; there’s also an attractive, honeyed element and a lush, buttery palate with some candied fruit notes, plus soft spices before a long, rounded, generous finish.

The NV Hommage au Pinot Noir is another fabulous wine in this range from Giraud. Rich, ample and creamy, the Hommage is so expressive today. The Hommage is 100% Pinot Noir done in an unusual style that sees eleven months in oak followed by six months in tank, an approach that is much more common for white Burgundy. In fact, I have never seen this élevage in Champagne. No matter, though, it all works. Red plum, kirsch, mint, chamomile and spice all meld together effortlessly. The Hommage is rich and generous, but is also light on its feet. This release is based on 2016, with 40% reserve wines. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. - Antonio Galloni