Though less than half a century old, and remarkably young compared to its European counterparts, the wine industry in California has managed to enchant the country’s wine buying public as well as receive accolades from “across the pond.” This may be because of two realities. First is the undeniable quality of the wines—remarkably fruity, full and satisfying, rarely too austere or tannic to be savored from the first day. The second is the “buy American” angle. A very high number of American wine buyers simply prefer domestic to foreign wines.
The state plays host to an enormous range of microclimates and soils as well as a lot of sunshine, hot summer days and dry harvests. All these factors contribute to healthy ripe fruits that make European producers, in less dependable climates, green with envy. More than three out of every four years, California’s best sites produces excellent wines.
The U.S. is not protectionist when it comes to taxing imported wines compared to many other countries, but the California wine industry is inherently protected because of consumers wanting to buy American.
To most people, the Napa Valley is the home of California wine, and Cabernet is the clear king in Napa. Burgundy varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have moved to cooler areas, for the most part closer to the Pacific. This includes the western stretches of Sonoma County, the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, and the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez valleys of Santa Barbara County. In regions as contrasting as Mendocino County, the Sonoma coast, Carneros, Paso Robles, and Santa Maria Valley, Syrah vines have yielded interesting wines. Excellent Zinfandel is also produced all over the state and may be the only California wine emulated abroad.
Stephen Tanzer's IWC, 92 points: Pale yellow-gold. Musky citrus oil, quinine, ginger and spearmint complicated by minerals on the nose. A bit more exotic on the palate but dry and taut as well, with complex flavors of stone fruits, minerals, licorice and...
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 91 points: The 2016 Viognier has wonderfully floral notes of honeysuckle and peach blossoms with a core of apricots, spiced apple and aniseed plus a waft of baking bread. Medium-bodied, with a pleasant touch of oiliness to the...
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 92 points: The 2012 Viognier Lia (a 230-case cuvée of 100% Viogner) was aged in larger French hogsheads with no malolactic and only 20% new oak. The vines were 14 years of age in 2012. It reveals that steely, wet pebbly, gravelly...
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-Thomas C., December 2017