The steep, sun-drenched slope of Clos des Goisses has no equal in Champagne, but its thumping ripeness can be alarming. In some vintages it finds an alluring harmony, and 2007 is one of these. Its voluminous power is met by malic acidity, with control on the finish, projecting the presence of salty chalk minerality with Clos des Goisses confidence.

The 2007 vintage of Clos des Goisses is absolutely superb and is already showing plenty of secondary layering of complexity in its outstanding bouquet of peach, apple, patissière, a very complex base of soil tones, incipient nuttiness and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and sports simply outstanding depth in the core, with refined mousse, bright acids and great cut and grip on the very long finish. This is already a very easy wine to drink today, but I would try to exercise a modicum of patience and give it just a few more years’ worth of bottle age to allow the palate to catch up with the lovely development already showing in the bouquet. (Drink between 2020-2060)

The 2007 Clos des Goisses Brut blends 65% Pinot Noir with 35% Chardonnay and opens with a bright, highly refined and complex bouquet of red fruits, fresh ginger and roasted hazelnuts. On the palate, this is a pure, highly refined and very mineral Clos des Goisses that reveals a long, complex, beautifully tensioned and iodine-laced finish. Just Beautiful! This bottle was disgorged in September 2016. Tasted April 2018.- SR

A dense, minerally Champagne, statuesque, with firm acidity, offering a chalky overtone to the tightly knit hints of black currant, biscuit and salted almond. Offers a lip-smacking, citrusy finish. Disgorged June 2016. Best from 2019 through 2029. 2,300 cases made. — AN