Such a concise and laser-focused wine with tight layers of crushed stones, praline, frangipani flowers, green apples, lemons, hazelnuts, pastries and salted almonds. Very tight bubbles here. So clear and structured, with a long and mineral finish. Still reserved. 54% chardonnay and 46% pinot noir. 4.8g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

A graceful Champagne, showing a sense of finesse to the detailed intersection of bright, buoyant acidity and chalky minerality, with a fine, satiny mousse and flavors of ripe Asian pear, dried white cherry, salted almond, lemon curd and crystallized honey. Long and mouthwatering on the creamy finish, echoing spice and saline notes. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2038. 125 cases imported.

Gosset's just-released 2008 Extra-Brut Celebris is showing beautifully out of the gates, offering up sweet aromas of citrus oil, dried white flowers, warm biscuits and nougat, with hints of the dried fruits to come. Medium to full-bodied, racy and layered, with a firm core of fruit that's girdled by tangy acids and a long, penetrating finish, the house's typically tensile style is married with real flesh and weight. - William Kelley

The Champagne is showing signs of just turning towards maturity, giving it impressive longevity. The wine's white fruits, green-plum and citrus flavors have now muted as a rich nutty character develops. This is a great moment to drink the wine. Roger Voss

The 2008 Champagne Celebris Extra Brut is 54% Chardonnay and the remainder Pinot Noir, aged for over 9 years in cellar on its lees with 4.8 g/l dosage. It is rounded with ripe aromas of orange oil, almond pastry, and peach and is seamless to the palate with modest acidity, generous orchard fruit, and a richness and umami that lifts off the palate with delicate salinity. Drink this benchmark wine in the range now or over the next 10-15 years.