This famed Champagne comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the whole region, facing across the Marne river. With a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, the densely textured wine shows great richness, a magnificent sense of place and structure. This is a very fine wine, a monument among Champagnes, one that will age for many more years. Drink through 2030. ROGER VOSS

The 2010 Clos des Goisses, of which there will be only 5,000 bottles, shows a generous and lively bouquet of white pepper, white flowers, apricot and hazelnut. Made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, it possesses a creamy, deep and crystalline texture with elegant aromas of white fruits. Opulent, distinguished and delicate at the same time, the 2010 is a scintillating expression of this cuvée.

Disgorged in March 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, there are a mere 5,000 bottles of the 2010 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses. Describing the year as one that tended to be "fat and heavy," Charles Philipponnat explained that he feared the resulting wine might be too aromatic and evolve too rapidly, so he made a rigorous selection of only the freshest, liveliest lots—though he now regrets not making a little more. Offering up aromas of pear, waxy citrus fruit, fresh pastry, vanilla pod and a light touch of smoky reduction, the wine is full-bodied, broad and layered, with a textural, highly concentrated profile, ripe acids and a precise, mineral finish. Philipponnat is happy with the result but suspects that the wine will become buttery with bottle age and that it will always be a little atypical.- WK

Fragrant with apple blossom and marzipan, this creamy Champagne is finely detailed on the velvety palate. The chalky underpinnings are layered with vibrant acidity, supporting flavors of poached apricot and yellow plum, lemon curd and almond pastry. The long finish is clean and minerally. Disgorged March 2019. Drink now through 2033. — A.N.