This is pinot noir from Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, part aged in stainless steel with some malolactic conversion, part in barrels without malolactic. This wine excited me personally, having just spent some time in the vineyards of Aÿ this past summer. My notes read: “Brisk, deep in tone. Wow, that’s good wine. Very Aÿ, very potent. Pink grapefruit without any austerity.” I share those notes because, though I did not visit Philipponnat, and did not have any way of knowing this wine was from Aÿ, its flavors were tied directly to their terroir in a recognizable way. While those flavors are driven by red berry fruitiness, the wine smells and tastes of Champagne soil. Remarkable.

Impressive richness and power with sous-bois and woody aromas, as well as light honey, dried berries and yellow plums. The palate has a smooth, even and suave feel with handy freshness in the mid-palate. Stony grip to close. Drink or hold.

Rich notes of crème de cassis and marzipan wrap the fine backbone of acidity in this well-balanced and expressive Champagne. Fresh and focused, with a satiny mousse and lovely hints of elderflower, lemon pith and ground ginger. Disgorged September 2018. Drink now through 2027. 3,400 cases made, 100 cases imported. — AN

The 2012 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs was disgorged in September 2018 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage. Offering up notes of fresh peach, honeycomb, mint and warm bread, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and textural, with lively acids, excellent concentration and a chalky finish. It's showing very well.- WK

Grand and premier cru vineyards focussed on Ay and Mareuil-sur-Ay have captured the essence of Montagne de Reims Pinot Noir in what was fundamentally a Pinot Noir year. But if one anticipates robust power and savoury profundity, one may be a little surprised. It's a discrete wine but the most striking message conveys an almost balletic elegance, a diaphanous filigree of restraint and manicured potential. Red fruit characteristics are woven beautifully into a finely textured ensemble, which majors above all on finesse. Read more at https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/france/champagne/philipponnat-blanc-de-noirs-champagne-france-2012-29986#PoXXbgQ4QpgBCxSF.99