Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2020 is not a Giacomo Conterno bottling, but it does come from the Conterno orbit: Roberto Conterno (of Giacomo Conterno) acquired the historic Nervi estate in Alto Piemonte in 2018. The wine is a 100% Nebbiolo (locally Spanna) from the Gattinara DOCG in northern Piedmont, a zone known for Nebbiolo shaped as much by altitude and freshness as by tannin.

Vinous critic Antonio Galloni gives this an excellent 94-point review, calling it “elegant and lifted.” His note is specific about the wine’s aromatic profile: “crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon and orange peel” and an overall character he describes as “ethereal” and “nuanced.” He also points to the kind of savory edge that serious Gattinara can deliver, citing “bright saline notes” that carry through what he calls a “long, persistent finish.”

In structure, Galloni frames the 2020 as refined rather than forceful: “Understated and silky, the 2020 is exquisite,” he writes, underscoring that this is a Nebbiolo built on detail and line, not sheer weight. At the same time, it’s not positioned as an immediate, ready-to-pour red for everyone. Galloni notes, “All this needs is a few years to soften,” a straightforward reminder that the tannins and overall frame are still settling into place.

Production details reported for the wine indicate traditional, patient élevage: fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel with an extended maceration (about 3–4 weeks), followed by 36 months in neutral French oak. Alcohol is listed at 14%. Taken together with Galloni’s assessment, the 2020 reads as a classic-minded Gattinara—perfumed, savory, and persistent—with the balance and polish to reward short-term cellaring and longer aging.