Domaine Robert Groffier Père et Fils’ Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2022 is a flagship Pinot Noir from the estate’s roughly one-hectare holding in the storied Bonnes Mares climat, which straddles Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. The domaine, now led by Nicolas Groffier, is known for combining the polish associated with Chambolle with the structure that Bonnes Mares can deliver.
On the nose and palate, reviewers converge on dark-fruited intensity framed by spice and savory notes. Decanter calls it “a classic Bonnes Mares” with “dark damson plum and mulberry fruit aromas and hints of cedar, smoke, and pepper,” and describes the build as “firmly tannic, solid, and dense, but not heavy or ungainly – muscular elegance.” Wine Spectator likewise emphasizes the smoky register, noting “effusive aromas of toasty, smoky oak,” alongside “black cherry, blackberry, violet and smoked meat flavors,” finishing “long” and “subtle.”
The best reviews are excellent. Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy) rates it 98 points (noted as “95–98”), writing that the bouquet is “backward but suggesting a classical fruit profile,” and praising “a beautiful expression of dark raspberry fruit… with great sense of balance.” Decanter’s 96-point assessment also reads as a strong endorsement for a wine built for the long term.
A few useful production details emerge in the notes. Decanter reports the parcel sits “near the Morey end of the village,” and Nicolas Groffier describes it as “75% terres rouges and 25% terres blanches.” Jasper Morris cites “50% new wood and 90% whole bunch vinification,” while Decanter states the grapes are “entirely fermented as whole clusters,” with the wine “ageing in cask,” underscoring a method aimed at structure and aromatic complexity.
Wine Spectator’s drinking window—“Best from 2030 through 2047”—captures the core message: this is a serious, cellar-worthy Bonnes Mares with depth, spice, and controlled power.