Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils’ Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2023 is a Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits, drawn from the domaine’s roughly one-hectare holding in the Bonnes-Mares vineyard, which straddles Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. The estate—founded by Jules Groffier in the 1950s and now run by grandson Nicolas Groffier—has a long reputation for producing structured, fine-boned Burgundies, and this grand cru sits near the top of the range.
Critical response has been notably strong, led by an excellent 97-point review from Wine Spectator. The magazine calls it “awash in pure cherry, blackberry and black currant fruit flavors allied to a firm structure,” adding that “vibrant acidity keeps everything focused and long,” and recommending it “Best from 2029 through 2050.” That window underscores the wine’s intent: this is built to mature.
Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy) also rates it highly at 96 points, noting some useful detail on the site and élevage: Nicolas Groffier estimates the holding is “a little more than two-thirds on red soil,” and the wine sees “50% new wood.” Morris describes “a rich deep purple” color and says it is “very Bonnes Mares with its slightly wilder side,” emphasizing that it is “not hyper concentrated” but delivers “a noble quality to the dark red fruit… good acidity, tannins present but in balance.”
Vinous’ Neal Martin (95+ points) reports the 2023 was “completely destemmed… and matured in 50% new oak.” He finds it initially reserved, with “blackberry, briar, black pepper and light iris flower scents” emerging over time, and calls it “a very fine Grand Cru for long term aging.”
From Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, William Kelley (92–94 points; listed as 94) frames it as “muscular and structured,” with aromas of “raspberries, orange zest, rose petals, incense and spices,” followed by a “taut, structured mid-palate.” Overall, the 2023 combines dark fruit, spice, and firm architecture, with critics agreeing it will reward patience.