This gorgeous Sancerre is a chameleon in a glass whose character flips on the palate while remaining entirely delicious. Intense golden-fruit aromas of baked yellow apple and ripe Anjou pear surrender to brioche, bread dough, toast, bruised honeysuckle blossom and orange zest on the nose. The palate is creamy and delicious with yeasty elements bending a knee to ripe orchard fruit that asserts its hegemony while acknowledging its depth-inducing sidekick. — Reggie Solomon