Originating in the village of Ormes at the foot of the Petit Montagne and immediately adjacent to Reims’ southwest city limit, you might expect Bereche’s NV Brut Rose Campania Remensis Disg. 11/2012 to favor Meunier; but in fact, 60% of it is Pinot and 30% Chardonnay. Red currant and cherry – shadowed by kirsch – mark the high-toned, penetrating nose of this rather obviously serious pink wine. With rose hip, quinine, and cherry pit serving as piquant adjuncts for the tart red berry fruit delivered on the palate and a suffusion of chalk in its gripping finish, this is all-in-all a bit austere but impressive and bound to prove fascinating at table over the next 2-3 years. -David Schildknecht