Surely the most underpriced champagne on the market today, yet one of the most complex. The 60/25/15% pinot noir/chardonnay/pinot meunier blend is of scant importance compared with the 400 components with 60% reserves, the oldest 8+ years old. Majestically complex and layered in a jewelled crown of freshness. Special.

Lots of biscuit aromas and a wide spectrum of fresh-citrus, candied-citrus, red-apple and red-berry notes. Mouth-filling creaminess, plus quite an imposing presence and powerful structure for an NV Brut. Long, citrus and chalky finish that’s very clean and properly dry. 60% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay, 10% pinot meunier. Almost 20% barrel fermented and 62% reserve wines. Based on the 2017 vintage and disgorged July 2021. Drink now.

A graceful Champagne, with flavors of black cherry, Asian pear, toast point and salted almond dancing across the palate. Bright and buoyant, with a fine, lacy mousse and delicate notes of lime blossom, ground coffee and exotic spices playing on the finish. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. — A.N.

The NV Champagne Special Cuvée is 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, and a small amount of Meunier, with the base wine coming from the 2018 vintage and 15% from reserve. Light golden in color, the nose is vinous and forward, with ripe and opulent fruit, offering notes of yellow flowers, orange zest, redcurrants, toast, and broth. The palate is ripe with red plum and displays a chalky texture with a fine mousse. Classic and balanced, this is a great entry wine for the range with its balance of power and finesse. Drink now and over the following 10-15 years. - Audrey Frick

Like its rosé counterpart, the latest release of Bollinger's NV Brut Special Cuvée is showing especially well, bursting from the glass with aromas of honeyed apples, crisp stone fruit, buttery pastry, ripe lemons and fresh walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vinous, with a deep core of beautifully ripe fruit, racy acids and a pillowy mousse, it's a charming, characterful wine that proves that Special Cuvée is firmly back where it belongs. - William Kelley

Dominated, as always, by Pinot Noir and with wood fermentation and aging, this Champagne has a great poise between freshness and richness. It is intense and ripe, with apple and minerality coming together. The bottling is ready to drink. ROGER VOSS