This graceful Champagne is like the finely tailored suit that somehow never goes out of style, with a lovely overtone of minerally chalk and brine enticing you into the glass, where flavors of apricot and Marcona almond, and hints of passionfruit coulis and pickled ginger, ride the fine, satinlike mousse.

An elegant, pure and airy nose features timid if quite pretty aromas of green apple, citrus, baked bread and a hint of yeast. The refined and equally restrained flavors are animated by an impressively fine mousse that is dense but not foamy, all wrapped in a delicious and clean finale that is drier than the stated dosage would suggest. Lovely stuff and while this could certainly be enjoyed now, it should also be capable of rewarding 3 to 7 years of cellaring.

The new release of Bertrand Lilbert’s non-vintage Blanc de Blancs is from the base year of 2017, with fifty percent of the cuvée (as is his custom for this bottling) composed of reserve wines. It was disgorged in July of 2020 and finished with a dosage of three grams per liter. The wine delivers a very expressive nose of pear, delicious apple, a touch of hazelnut, chalky soil tones, brioche and a gently floral topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and impeccably balanced, with a superb core, impressive mineral drive and cut, elegant mousse and a long, complex and very classy finish. First class Blanc de Blancs!

The NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is lithe, elegant and classy. Marzipan, lemon confit, white flowers and mint give the Blanc de Blancs lovely brightness to match its airy, lifted personality. This is an especially fine edition. The current release is a blend of 50% 2017 and 50% reserve wines. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: Spring, 2021. (Drink between 2021-2028)

91+ The latest rendition of Lilbert's NV Grand Cru Cramant Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in spring 2019 with a low three grams per liter dosage. It's based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines. Offering up a crisp and pure bouquet of green apple, wet stones and lemon oil, as well as subtle suggestions of freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with fine depth at the core, a delicate mousse and a chalky finish. This is quite a tender, charming rendition of this cuvée, despite the very low dosage, but as usual it will amply reward some aging on cork. - William Kelley