Mouthwatering and harmonious, with minerally drive and a finely detailed, silky mousse focusing the flavors of dried apricot, lemon confit, biscuit, crystallized honey, fennel seed and fleur de sel. Very elegant. Drink now through 2021. – AN

91+ The latest rendition of Lilbert's NV Grand Cru Cramant Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in spring 2019 with a low three grams per liter dosage. It's based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines. Offering up a crisp and pure bouquet of green apple, wet stones and lemon oil, as well as subtle suggestions of freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with fine depth at the core, a delicate mousse and a chalky finish. This is quite a tender, charming rendition of this cuvée, despite the very low dosage, but as usual it will amply reward some aging on cork. - William Kelley