Roederer’s specialty multi-vintage house blend is the annual Collection creation, and this year’s Collection 245 is a finely woven, mineral-laced beauty. Composed of 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 24% Pinot Meunier, the backbone (55%) is from the 2020 harvest, while 35% comes from a Perpetual Reserve of 2012-2019 vintages, and 10% is Reserve Wines aged in oak (2010, 2013, 2015, 2017, 2018, and 2019). The dosage is just 7 grams per liter. Notes of citron blossom, lemon tart, and lime leaves slowly emerge from the glass, leading to hints of raising bread dough, fresh ginger, and sea spray, with a touch of coriander seed. The light-bodied, very dry, beautifully poised palate is elegantly crafted with intense citrus and mineral layers and a lively yet well-knit backbone, finishing long and chalky. I love the restraint here—unmistakably Roederer.

This is the 245th blend of Roederer's non-vintage Champagne. It is a fine wine, highlighting the blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, bringing in reserve wines to give richness and balance. It is fresh, beginning to show signs of maturity, with an apple aroma and a ripe palate. Drink now. — Roger Voss

Restrained green apple, lemon bush and lime, plus light brioche and chalk. Medium to full body with fine, nicely persistent bubbles and good substance on the mid-palate. Almost biting yet polished at the end, with long, refreshing acidity. Lacks a bit of complexity at the moment, but fresh. Best from 2025. Aldo Fiordelli Senior Editor

The bright straw-colored NV Champagne Collection 245 is juicy and ripe, revealing notes of ripe, fresh peaches and bread, with a chalky, elegant texture and a pinpoint, refined mousse. This medium-bodied Champagne continues to impress and is an outstanding value to drink now or over the next 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040.

Based on the 2020 vintage, Louis Roederer’s NV Brut Collection 245 is stylistically somewhat comparable to the two previous editions, which were based on the 2018 and 2019 vintages. Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon explains that the personality of the wine will change depending on the base year. By identifying the wine with a number, they do not intend to produce the same profile year in and year out, but rather, they will embrace the singularity of each vintage, accepting the different personalities of the base year. It is complemented by a perpetual reserve initiated in 2012, which is stored in large tanks without lees; the reserve provides balance to the warm years like this, as the perpetual component did not go through malolactic fermentation. While a considerable portion of the fruit comes from Louis Roederer's own estates, for this bottling, the blend incorporates purchased fruit as well, particularly Pinot Meunier, which they do not own. Including approximately 43% Chardonnay, the new Brut Collection offers notes of pear, peach and candied orange zest. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, textural and fleshy, laden with vibrant acidity and concluding with a nicely defined, delicately saline finish, even with 7.5 grams per liter dosage.

The NV Collection 245 is another stellar Champagne from Roederer. Apricot, white flowers, spice, white pepper and tangerine oil all open in the glass. This is a more open-knit style from Roederer. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier based in 2020, but with 35% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve of previous editions and 10% reserve wines in oak, meaning the base vintage is not particularly evident. Dosage is 7 grams per liter, but it feels a bit higher than that. - Antonio Galloni

A mineral-driven version, with an airy, chalky-textured mousse. Deftly integrates hints of smoke and oyster shell with flavors of yellow plum, Gala apple, honeysuckle and salted almond. Refined and persistent on the finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier.