Vilmart & Cie’s Grand Cellier Premier Cru Brut is a non-vintage Champagne from the Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne in the Montagne de Reims. The blend is consistently described as about 70% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Noir, and the house’s technique—fermentation and élevage in large oak casks with malolactic fermentation blocked—shows up as a combination of texture and firm, bright acidity. Dosage is reported around 7–8 g/L, depending on the disgorgement.
Across multiple recent releases, critics underline a citrus-led profile with a creamy, finely built mousse. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (92 points) notes a “2023 vintage-based” bottling “disgorged in July 2025,” with “nashi pear, quince and lemon oil,” plus “white flowers and blanched almonds,” finishing on a “long, lemon-inflected finish” and “racy acidity and pinpoint mousse.” Vinous critic Antonio Galloni (92 points) calls the “2022 base” version “exuberant and showy,” highlighting “lemon confit, tangerine oil, white flowers,” and “gorgeous mid-palate viscosity and texture,” adding that it is “impeccably done” (disgorged January 2025; 7 g/L dosage).
Several reviews rise to an excellent level. Wine Spectator awards 93 points, describing “a vivid Champagne” where “chiseled acidity” meets flavors from “crushed boysenberry” and “yellow peach” to “oyster shell,” carried by a “raw silk–like mousse” and recommending it both now and through 2033 (disgorged July 2024). Decanter also gives 93 points, praising an “ultra-silky, detailed and refined style,” with “sweet preserved lemon, toasted pecan and macaron flavours,” and noting the role of “large, neutral Alsatian oak casks.”
Jeb Dunnuck (93 points) emphasizes the wine’s structure and aging capacity, calling it “focused and bright,” with “bright acidity that brings tension,” and reporting a multi-vintage composition (base 2021 with 2020 and 2019 reserves; disgorged September 2024; 7 g/L). The Wine Palate (92 points) similarly underscores fine mousse, intensity, and a “little salinity” on the finish (8 g/L; disgorged May 2022). Overall, Grand Cellier reads as a textured, oak-shaped but decidedly fresh Premier Cru Brut, built to drink well now while rewarding short- to mid-term cellaring.