A sculpted Champagne, rich but still elegant, with well-honed acidity and a panoply of flavors set on the raw silklike mousse. Delivers grilled macadamia nut and biscuit, white cherry and nectarine fruit, crystallized honey, lime blossom, star anise and smoke accents. Long, salty finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now through 2033. – AN

Beautifully refined and delicate with clementine and pale strawberry enlivened by a touch of flintiness and creaminess and delivered with a delicate mousse. The Chardonnay lifts and elongates with fine zesty energy. Detailed, poised and classy, this is superb value. 10 months predominantly in large oak foudres.

A blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay, this has a complex and sophisticated nose that delivers peach fruits and citrus, plus some bolder yellow plum fruits too. The palate is assertive, energetic and concentrated with peach and nectarine flavors met with lemony acidity. Long, really powerful Champagne here. Drink now or age on cork for three or more years. - Nick Stock

(92+ points) Grand Cellier 1er Cru NV is a 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir based on 2019 with 50% of reserve wines from the two previous years. Lemon-gold in color, it makes a light aromatic first impression with notes of apple and pear compote, crème fraiche, lemon zest and wild strawberry coulis that flows to a medium-bodied, creamy palate with a textured, fine mousse enveloping ripe citrus and racy acidity. Great intensity and length on the taut finish with a little salinity. Disgorged May 2022 and finished with an eight gram per liter dosage. - Sarah Mayo

The July 2019 disgorgement of Vilmart's NV Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier is showing nicely, and it has hardly evolved in the last year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, waxy citrus rind, bee pollen, white flowers and blanched almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a pretty pinpoint mousse. This is based on the 2016 harvest with reserve wines from the 2015 and 2014 vintages. - William Kelley