Vilmart & Cie’s Les Blanches Voies Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2013 is a Premier Cru, 100% Chardonnay Champagne from the Blanches Voies lieu-dit in Rilly-la-Montagne, built in a house style that emphasizes structure and clarity. The wine was disgorged in April 2021 after extended aging, and the critics’ notes consistently frame it as a serious, cellar-worthy Blanc de Blancs with both depth and drive.
A key part of its profile is its slow development after disgorgement. Kristaps Karklins (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate) notes that, “with additional time following disgorgement… [it] continues its glacial evolution,” opening to “lemon oil, nashi pear and white flowers” alongside “toasted bread, almonds and a hint of Tahitian vanilla.” He describes it as “ample and incisive,” with a “crisp core of fruit and chalky structure” and a “long, penetrating finish,” adding that it has “abundant energy” and is “destined to be a long-distance runner.” Wine Advocate rated it an excellent 96.
Antonio Galloni (Vinous) goes further, calling it “one of the finest wines ever made at Vilmart,” and praising its “super-classic and vertical” stance with “striking energy.” His 97-point review highlights the interplay of fruit and minerality—“lemon confit, passion fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and tangerine peel”—and ties the intensity to “a long growing season and an October harvest.”
Jeb Dunnuck delivers the strongest score at 98—an exceptional review—describing a Champagne that is “layered and decadent” yet “refined, and focused,” with an “elegant, pinpoint, pillowy mousse.” He emphasizes “saltiness,” “mouthwatering citrus oils,” and “fabulous energy,” concluding it is “a stunning wine… for the ages,” with a long drinking window (2025–2055).
Wine Spectator (96) sums up its style neatly: “like white Burgundy, with finely detailed bubbles,” offering “opulent and creamy” texture balanced by a “refined, refreshing and graceful” finish, and recommends drinking it “now through 2043.”