2017 Clos Mogador Proprietary Blend

Proprietary Blend - 750ML
$94.94
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REVIEWS

WA 96
WA 96

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, December 2020

I also tasted the 2017 Clos Mogador next to the 2018 vintage. The varietal mix has been slowly changing, with less Cabernet and Syrah and more and more Cariñena. In 2006, they started fermenting with indigenous yeasts...

WINE DETAILS

Color & Type
Red
Varietal
Proprietary Blend
Country
Spain
Region
Priorat
Vintage
2017
Size
750ML
Percent alcohol
15.50%

The prestigious Clos Mogador flagship release became Catalonia’s first officially recognized “Vi de Finca” or “estate wine”. Additionally it bears distinction as a D.O.Ca Priorat, which guarantees that all grapes used to make the wine have been sourced exclusively from a single vineyard for at least five years.

A proprietary blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it bides its time in carefully selected French oak barrels. Clos Mogador is made with affection and dedication, attentively following the traditional artisan methods of the world’s best ‘Grands Cru’ wines.

Clos Mogador 2017 is the flagship red from René Barbier’s family estate in DOQ Priorat, made from a single, steep-terraced vineyard of llicorella (slate) and certified as a *Vi de Finca*, Catalonia’s top single-estate designation. Production is limited—about 21,000 bottles—and the wine is built in a distinctly Priorat way: old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena at the core, supported by Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (the estate lists 45% Garnacha, 29% Cariñena, 16% Syrah and 10% Cabernet).

In the cellar, the approach is traditional but tightly controlled. Clos Mogador has used indigenous yeasts since 2006, and since 2011 it has incorporated large oak *foudres*; Luis Gutiérrez (Robert Parker’s *Wine Advocate*) notes the 2017 was “bottled in June 2019, after 18 months in 300-liter barrels and 2,000-liter oak vats.” Fermentations include a portion of whole clusters and can run long, with extended macerations aimed at depth without losing balance. At around 15% alcohol and essentially dry (about 0.8 g/L residual sugar), the numbers signal power, but not sweetness.

The 2017 growing season shapes the style. Gutiérrez calls it “a tough vintage, a very warm and extremely dry year,” and says the challenge was “to keep the freshness.” He reports “a very slow fermentation,” and while the wine carries “a full 1% more alcohol than the 2018,” he emphasizes that “there is very good acidity that keeps the wine balanced.”

In the glass, this reads as a ripe, warm-year Mogador: “dusty tannins and very ripe flavors,” with “a long finish—warm and Mediterranean,” in Gutiérrez’s words. His 96-point rating is an excellent review and places Clos Mogador 2017 firmly among the high-performing reds of the vintage, especially for drinkers who want Priorat concentration anchored by real structure and lift.