Wow. A super-intense and perfumed wine with aromas of vibrant plums, restrained blood oranges, sweet spices, cloves, coconut, gardenias, milk and fresh mint. Full-bodied and smooth, with velvety, elegant tannins, great density and long, refreshing and balancing acidity. Sleek finish of graphite and licorice. Despite its concentration and dry extract, it shows lightness on the palate. Drinkable now, but at its peak in 10 years. Aldo Fiordelli Senior Editor

The 2019 Valpolicella Superiore Lodoletta is heavenly. A vivid blend of fresh black cherries combines with autumnal spice and almond paste, complicated by a whiff of orange-infused dark chocolate. Peppery rose tones and nuances of shaved cedar join the fray over time. This is a model of elegance yet refinement, silky smooth and pliant, with radiant red berry fruits and mineral tones offset by a tart tinge of citrus, all beautifully balanced by a core of vibrant acidity. The 2019 finishes exceptionally long and full of zesty tension, leaving a twang of bitter clove that pinches at the cheeks as hints of graphite linger. This is a fabulous rendition of Dal Forno’s Valpolicella, finishing at 14.5% alcohol and 0.6 grams of residual sugar per liter. Do not miss this beautiful beast. - Eric Guido

This Valpolicella is a horse of a different color: dense and creamy, with a rich, saturated feel to the layers of baked black and red currant, fig cake, loamy earth, Earl Grey and cigar box spice notes. Nicely framed by fine-grained, taut tannins and plum skin acidity, this is long and fragrant on the finish. Corvina, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta. Drink now through 2039.