Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils’ 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a small-production Pinot Noir—about 1,000 bottles—from a 0.20-hectare parcel on the Chambolle-Musigny side of Bonnes-Mares, planted in 1979. The domaine farms organically and biodynamically, and the winemaking is intentionally light-handed: hand-harvested fruit, about one-third whole cluster, native-yeast fermentation, and 15–18 months in French oak with modest new wood (the estate notes up to around 20%), then bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In barrel, the wine drew outstanding early praise. Vinous critic Neal Martin called it “seriously complex,” highlighting “violet-tinged black and blue fruit” that is “amazingly intense at this early stage.” He also notes that “despite a touch of reduction,” the wine’s mouthfeel is defined by “very succulent tannins” and a “velvety texture,” with oak that is “perfectly integrated.” Martin’s view that it “fans out gloriously towards the finish” with “layers” of “cassis and black cherry fruit,” plus “white pepper and bay leaf,” underpins an excellent 95–97 point assessment (reported as 97 here).
Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy) also rated it highly at 94–96 points (reported as 96), noting that Cyprien Arlaud “has decided not to use any new wood on most of the grands crus.” Morris describes a “dense purple” wine whose bouquet is initially “a little more reticent” before opening to “really deep spicy fruit,” carried by “a nice touch of mineral acidity.” He concludes: “Very well balanced, with detail and nuance,” and an “excellent finish.”
Burghound’s Allen Meadows (93–95 points, reported as 95) emphasizes structure and longevity, citing a “distinctly earthy nose” with “red and dark currant, rose petal, violet,” and “pretty spice whiffs.” He finds “intense broad-shouldered flavors” framed by “dense but fine-grained tannins,” finishing “hugely long, balanced and firmly austere,” and predicts it will “likely need 20 years” to reach its peak.