The latest release of Delamotte's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs, the house's emblematic bottling, is once again showing very well, bursting with aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread, nougat, crisp stone fruit and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with a fleshy core of fruit, bright acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it's a seamless, elegant wine that concludes with a flavorful finish. - William Kelley

Based on the Côte des Blancs, the Champagne home of Chardonnay, it's logical that this producer should make a fine Blanc de Blancs. This wine has all the attributes, with crisp apple and a mineral texture that is tightly prominent. This is a fine wine, just hinting at toastiness. Drink now. Roger Voss

Moving into the NV Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, this release is from the 2016 base vintage with 7 grams per liter of dosage. The nose is very pretty and pure and starts to show the character emblematic of the house style. The aromas have classic charm, with ripe green pear, brioche, white flowers, and crushed stone, while the palate offers more tension and mineral drive, with bright green apple, melon, and citrus pith. With its wonderful concentration and a refreshing nature, this textbook Blanc de Blancs offers a lot of pleasure. Drink 2022-2032. - Audrey Frick

6g/L dosage. Grand cru Chardonnay from Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil in roughly equal proportions, aged for a minimum 48 months on lees. The current release is based on the 2015 vintage, and includes 15% reserve wines. Malolactic is used but no oak, in pursuit of a wine that embodies the concentration of Chardonnay style. This is open and approachable, with quite opulent aromas of ripe peach fruit, lemon citrus, white flowers, brioche and a hint of marzipan. Mellow but structured, with purity, complexity and freshness – this would be a perfect match for oysters or other seafood.

Delamotte’s non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Brut that is currently in the market is a lovely bottle. It is made entirely from grand cru vineyards, with the vins clairs fermented in stainless steel and the wine aged sur latte for a minimum of four years prior to disgorgement. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a refined and nicely high-toned constellation of pear, lemon, warm bread, white lilies and a fine base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and zesty, with a good core of fruit, frothy mousse, good mineral undertow and a long, nascently complex and vibrant finish. This is approachable today, but will be even better with another couple of years in the cellar to allow its fine girdle of acidity to relax a bit more and let out more complexity.