The latest rendition of Delamotte's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is drinking very well out of the gates, offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit and citrus zest mingled with hints of fresh bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with bright acids and chalky grip, concluding with a dry finish, this is a classy, seamless wine that will offer a broad drinking window. - William Kelley

6g/L dosage. Grand cru Chardonnay from Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil in roughly equal proportions, aged for a minimum 48 months on lees. The current release is based on the 2015 vintage, and includes 15% reserve wines. Malolactic is used but no oak, in pursuit of a wine that embodies the concentration of Chardonnay style. This is open and approachable, with quite opulent aromas of ripe peach fruit, lemon citrus, white flowers, brioche and a hint of marzipan. Mellow but structured, with purity, complexity and freshness – this would be a perfect match for oysters or other seafood.

Delamotte’s non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Brut that is currently in the market is a lovely bottle. It is made entirely from grand cru vineyards, with the vins clairs fermented in stainless steel and the wine aged sur latte for a minimum of four years prior to disgorgement. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a refined and nicely high-toned constellation of pear, lemon, warm bread, white lilies and a fine base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and zesty, with a good core of fruit, frothy mousse, good mineral undertow and a long, nascently complex and vibrant finish. This is approachable today, but will be even better with another couple of years in the cellar to allow its fine girdle of acidity to relax a bit more and let out more complexity.

Since it is based on the Côte des Blancs, it is appropriate that one of this producer's most important cuvées is a Blanc de Blancs. This is a stylish Champagne that brings out crisp acidity, fine apple and citrus flavors and a poised final acidity. The bottling is ready to drink. ROGER VOSS

A crisp blanc de blancs in an aperitif style, with a racy streak of acidity creating a mouthwatering frame for tangerine, glazed apricot, lemon thyme and minerally chalk and smoke notes as they ride the lacy mousse. Drink now. – AN