97+ Entirely Pinot Noir, The NV Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons Extra Brut is based on the 2018 vintage with 60% reserve wine contributing to the blend, and 2.4 grams per liter of dosage. It was aged for 36 months on the lees, and the aging period will be bumped up to 48 months with future releases. Historically, I have tended to favor the Les Pierrières, however in this tasting the Les Maillons took the ever-so-slight edge. It is pure and resonating with kirsch, salinity, and a lightly toasted perfume. The mousse is supple and round, with a core of energetic richness of fruit. This is drinking really well at the moment but will benefit with a little more time in cellar. Drink 2023-2043.<!--more-->Olivier Collin is based in Coteaux du Petit Morin, in the village of Congy. In the 1930s, his grandfather was the first récoltant-manipulant in the region, bottling only from his own vineyards and not selling any grapes to négociants. Olivier’s father sold the company in 1987, and in March of 2003, Olivier and his family made the decision to reclaim a portion of the vineyards and to begin making wine. At that time, the health of the soils had deteriorated, so his first work was to purchase a tractor in order to improve the soil’s health, and he was able to produce his first vintage in 2004. He likes to work as naturally as possible, though he prefers to be free of the constraints of any organization for organic or biodynamic certifications. In the vineyard, he looks for high maturity of the grapes without being overripe. He strives to work in a balanced way, with natural yeasts, natural malolactic fermentations, low intervention, and sulfur addition only at the pressing prior to fermentation. The goal is to produce the best base wine possible, with a focus on gastronomic importance. In the winery, he ferments entirely in barrels, the majority of which are used. There are small levels of dosage added that will vary from vintage to vintage, ranging between 0.85 grams to 4 grams per liter, depending on what the wine needs. Recent developments include increasing the aging on lees, and readers can expect to see this continue with additional cuvées in the years to come. (Drink between 2023-2043)

Disgorged this year after 36 months in tirage, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2018) is based on the 2018 vintage, incorporating fully 60% reserve wines from the 2017 vintage. Opening in the glass with scents of sweet mirabelle plum, honeycomb, orange oil, bee pollen and spices, it's full-bodied fleshy and seamless, with a satiny attack that segues into a vinous, enveloping mid-palate that's complemented by a fine, pillowy mousse. Concluding with a sapid, penetrating finish, 2018 was the first vintage in which Collin employed his new Coquard press, and it doesn't seem fanciful to imagine that this contributes to the notable finesse of this release. - WK